Brutal Ancestral 2021
Bodega Cueva, Valencia, Spania. Macabeo and Moscatell, 50/50. 12.5% ABV, 0.75 L bottle. Synopsis: By the sea. Further reading: Light yellow and slightly cloudy Pet Nat (pétillant naturel). Nose of citric fruit, even some sweet honey melon and lichi – besides, very creamy, like fresh brioche, according to our friend Vin John. Discrete bubbles, touching the tongue like foam. Fresh river during summer heat. A “svaberg-vin” at Saltnes. Not that brutal, after all. That said: This should not be misunderstood as boring; it is elegance, freshness, easy pleasure. The soil: Chalk and clay. Besides, it is all ecologically made with hand-harvested grapes from approximately 50 years old bush vines, 750–800 meters above sea level. Spontaneously fermented, unfiltered.
Cric Cric 2020
Clos Lentiscus, Terragona, Spain. Xarel-Lo. 11% ABV, 1 L bottle. Synopsis: Sticky skin by the sea. Further reading: From around 80 years old vines in the Garraf mountains. Beneath: Fossil seabed (old shell and such), clay with a lot of chalk. Straw yellow. It is said to smell of salt, too, which also reflects the taste: Summer by the sea, soft and smooth, sticky skin after a couple of baths. (May we dare to wish for a ‘dry and dusty’ one?) Biodynamically grown, hand-harvested (!) and spontaneously fermented in neutral steel tanks, unfiltered. Meaning: It might need some air but should be enjoyed while cold – this is all natural, babe.
Piantagrane 2021
Villa Job, Friuli-Venezia Giuli, Italy. Pinot Grigio. 14% ABV, 0.75 L bottle. Synopsis: The glitch / Naked bath. Further reading: Light amber orange. Fruity, fresh, floral, but also minerals and a touch of salt. A dry orange. With attitude; firm and elegant. Someone normally wearing a suit (pinstriped) taking it off on a hot day in July (or August) to take a swim, naked. Don’t get fooled by this one, also high percentage. Ecological and unfiltered.
Sassara Esotico 2022
Az. Agr. Pezzini, Veneto, Italia. Molinara and Corvina, Garganega, Moscato, and Trebbiano on top. 11% ABV, 0.75 L bottle. Synopsis: The playful lawyer. Further reading: Deep pinky orange, looks like a mix of carrot and grapefruit, cloudy. Apparently it has a touch of elegance, attitude with a sting, for sure good character, and is no fan of foolish jokes (or bad company, mansplaining and boastful behaviour). Yet, they are very playful. They might seem a bit scary at first, and yes, they for sure think it’s hot with properly articulated phrases and a touch of arrogance (if with warmth and style), however: Sweetness and a true heart will get you a lot further with them. (Do you also imagine a well-dressed lawyer, continental vibes, turning out to become the centre of the table, for then surprise you what they really enjoys is playing some computer game, flowers, and whips and laces?) – Tropical nose (apricot, peach), but don’t get fooled: The taste is dry and full of minerals. Although so much fruit! Almost as a fresh apple most. Besides: Spontaneously fermented on neutral steel tanks, 10 days of skin contact, unfiltered. Pure juice! And look at that label – all aquarelle rainbow-spots! Looks like a party-on-bottle, is a party-on-bottle. Probably tonight’s favourite orange.
Kuisko 2017
Kmetija Stekar, Slovenia. Chardonnay. 13.5% ABV, 0.75 L bottle. Synopsis: ‘A lot’, but elegantly twisted. Further reading: Looks like honey on a warm day; deep amber orange. Floral, sweet fruit in the nose (apricot, tropical melons). – Pretty much a liquid dessert due to the touch of raisin, warm and dried fruit, yet slightly crisper and fresher in the mouth. (Even some varnish, amber? Nuts? Not in a bad sense.) Eastern Europe, and Slovenia included (although this is close to Italy), has long traditions and some unique tastes in orange wine, it might be unlike what you have tried before. This one is neither light or heavy – it is ‘a lot’, but elegantly twisted and silky smooth. Biodynamically farmed, it has had 22 days of skin contact, spontaneously fermented, then 4 years on 600 L barrels, unfiltered.
