Queer [orange] wine!
TONIGHT’S GEMS! GUESS 1–5!
Adriaan Van Zyl Muscat d’Alexandrie 2021 — The Attitude
Adriaan Van Zyl Wines, South-Africa, Coastal Region; Grapes: Muscat of Alexandria 100%; 12.0% ABV. First senses: Golden light green, aromatic, distinct grape. Peachy, citric, some spices and minerals. Tongue: Large and bold, salty (!) with elegant dryness and length. The tropical fruits are still there, but not the candy sweetness that you might expect. Personality: Think big intensity and charisma, credibility. Further reading: The stocks are from 1972, growing in a slope, surrounded by chestnut forests in an ancient area south of Cape Town known for this grape, touched by cool wind from the False Bay. The grapes are hand-harvested, whole grape clusters ferments naturally; 10 days of skin contact followed by 10 months on 50L barrels. Born in 1995, Van Zyl is considered a rather young wine maker, but has already become a legend.
Kristinus Oliver 2022 — Young and edgy
Kristinus, Hungary, Balatonboglár; Grapes: Irsai Olivér 70%, Furmint (Šipon) 17%, Pinot Gris 7%, and Chardonnay 6%; 11.5% ABV. First senses: Light warm pinky yellow, unfiltered and cloudy. Loads of fresh grapes, white flowers and citric notes. Tongue: The citric fruits continue! Oranges and lime, perhaps some mango, too. Slightly full-bodied, but most of all very fresh — not sweet. Not too much acid; this one balanced the sparks perfectly well with its long-lasting aftertaste. Personality: Young and edgy. Not as hard as the first impression. Further reading: This wine is made by a German producer, at a carbon neutral winery. The grapes hand-harvested and naturally fermented. The vineyard is all biodynamical with a lot of animals crossing since its surrounded by forest and small lakes. The soil is limestone and loose sand. Most of the grapes enjoys 3–6 days of skin contact while a smaller part got 10 days in whole bunches. The skin contact happens in amphoras (clay containers) while the main fermentation process goes on in neutral barrels (steels). Unfiltered. We can also add that the Hungarian grape Irsai Olivér (a mix of Pozsonyi and Pearl of Csaba in the early 30s) is ripe as early as in August and has a distinct Muscato touch. Some says it reminds of Pinot Grigio, but it has a lot more colour. Low acid, tropical, citric.
Oriol Artigas La Rumbera 2021 — The Persevering worker
Oriol Artigas Viticoltors, Spain; Grapes: Xarel·lo 100%; 11.0% ABV. First senses: Golden, light honey yellow, citric fruits (grapefruit in particular?), white flowers ... Tongue: A lot of fresh fruit, less of the sweets. This one is dry, crisp, concentrated, filled with minerals, and has a long aftertaste. Personality: Enduring and sharp. (Despite this description is shorter than some of the others, doesn’t mean the wine is less fun. Consider it distinct.) Further reading: Natural and vegan, unfiltered and spontaneously fermented. This grape is particular for Catalonia, often used in Spanish sparkling wine, also called Cava.
La Forastera Cul Inquiet 2023 — Sophisticated and honest, the one that stays.
Penedès, Catalunya, Spain; Grapes: Xarel·lo 100%; 12.0% ABV. First senses: Deep straw yellow as heather honey, cloudy. Tropical fruit (peach, lichi, apricot). Tongue: This is nor sweet or gummy bear, but a queendom of a mouthful — a tasting curve that changes through every sip. Hints of white pepper, peppers in general, and citric notes. It is soft, full-bodied, but also salty and earthy ... Crisp. Rustic. Wet stone, yes. What is this gem?! Tropical and fruity, indeed, but so extremely elegant ...!! Must try. Personality: Intriguing, someone that touch you deeper than others. The conversation will last for hours. Never dull, and you cannot wait till the next date — whether this is a soul mate or a sexual partner, maybe both. One that will last forever. Further reading: The grapes are harvested by hand mid-September; picked of their branches and gently pressed (60%) and mashed (40%) and fermented on neutral steel tanks with skin contact for 6 weeks (a lot). Then: 8 months on the lees (sediments, “bunnfall”) in neutral steel tanks creates a potent wine that is pure grapes. Unfiltered. We love: Soil of sandy clay (!) grown on 35-year old stocks. La Forastera’s vineyards is among mountains and forest, and this Dutch winemaker only uses ancient yeast, no sulphur or additives, aiming to grow the healthiest and most natural grapes. All the wines have skin contact (from 6 hours–6 months). NOTE: La Forastera has become a favourite by Karmaklubb*. We had one of our greatest orange experiences with one of these wolfy* wines in Bergen last fall and immediately ordered a box from our friends Falske Reker. (* Every bottle has a wolf family on the label, this one green, as a homage to the nature around the winery.) Reker has rather remarkable and unusual wines in general, worth to keep in mind if you go West.
The Hermit Ram Salty White 2022 — Top notch elegance
New Zealand, North-Canterbury; Grapes: Blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Pinot Blanc; 11.5% ABV. First senses: Golden, fruity and fresh. Loads of fruit, hints of pineapple, pear, ripe yellow apples, and some citric (grapefruit). Salt and minerals. Tongue: Yes, pineapple and salt water (!). But don’t get fooled; this is a crisp one, yet bolder and more silky than expected, even with hints of nuts, most likely as a result of the flor*. (* “[A] film of yeast on the surface of the wine”, quote Wikipedia, that sometimes creates a feel of umami.) Personality: Fresh like salt sea water on a small rocky beach (“svaberg”) during the warmest summer days, late July or August, maybe even early September if it’s a good year, somewhere a bit hidden in Østfold, or perhaps Agder. Further reading: Fermented on amphoras and steel tanks. Organic. Unfiltered. This wine has received highest level of rating several times (e.g. 94/100 by Wine Anorak, 2024). Cellar Next Door wrote: “Sensational, utterly unique and completely delicious.” We cannot wait! Consider it a special one. For once, the title suits the wine. And the sheep label is fine, too.
